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AMA DABLAM EXPEDITION

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CLIMB AMA DABLAM, ONE OF THE MOST SPECTACULAR MOUNTAINS IN THE WORLD AND A CLIMBER'S DREAM

JOIN OUR TEAM AND CHALLENGE YOURSELF TO THE NEXT LEVEL

Towering over Tengboche monastery and the Sherpa village of Pangboche at a height of 6,812m, Ama Dablam is one of the most iconic mountains in Nepal. The much-coveted SW ridge is one of the more popular routes in the Himalayas today, with climbers often using it as preparation for an expedition to one of the greater 8,000m peaks (of course the mountain is by its own right a fantastic objective). Comprising of steep ice and rock with exposed ridges, the technical nature of the route is somewhat lessened by the presence of fixed lines along the majority of the route.

 

Our Route: We start our acclimatisation when we land in Lukla, the thriving Sherpa village known as the ‘Gateway to the Khumbu’. We trek through numerous Sherpa villages before arriving in the grassy surrounds of Ama Dablam Base Camp, which is undoubtedly one of the more scenic base camps in the Himalayas.

 

Above base camp we place three camps on the mountain, each precariously positioned on the ridge, which means you’ll need to have a good head for heights. Our summit push will begin early in the morning from Camp 3 and hopefully you’ll top out in great weather, as the summit affords spectacular views of numerous Himalayan giants, including Mount Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse.

 

This month-long expedition is suited to strong rock climbers and technically-orientated mountaineers, who have previous experience in the Himalayas or other lower technical peaks in Europe, North and South America or New Zealand.

For those who have less time, you can opt for the helicopter transfer package from Ama Dablam Base Camp to Kathmandu which can shave off up to 5 days.

There are also a number of contingency days built into the itinerary, and if not required, we will arrive back in Kathmandu earlier.  For this reason, it is recommended that you book a flexible airfare, allowing you freedom to change your return flight.

 

TECHNICAL GRADING

This expedition requires previous climbing experience in the Himalayas or strong rock climbing experience. Excellent fitness is essential as most climbing days are 8-12 hr along a technical route carrying a 10-15kg pack. The South West Ridge route is technical and will reach a maximum altitude of 6812m.

 

HIGHLIGHTS

  • Climb one of the world's most iconic peaks 

  • Test your skills at almost 7000m of altitude

  • Views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu and Cho Oyu

  • Experience technical climbing under well protected conditions

  • Colourful Buddhist culture

  • Spirited Sherpa people

TRIP FACTS

Trip:

Ama Dablam Expedition

Country: 

Nepal

Elevation:

6812m

Difficulty:

Hard to difficult

 

Steep terrain that requires ability to climb on snow/ice/rock. Experience with roping techniques including abseiling/rappelling along with good crampon skills.

Grade:

Excellent fitness, stamina and strong mindset with previous experience of a Himalayan (or similar climb) above 6000m.

Trip Dates: 
12th October to 7th November 2024

Trip Duration: 27 days

Trip Start:

Kathmandu

Trip End:

Kathmandu

Trip Route:

South-West ridge

Trip Price:

USD$12,500

Helicopter Transfer:

USD$1000-$2000 approx. depending on number of passengers.

Everest One Expedition Manager Allan Cohrs and Expedition Leader Phunuru Sherpa

Nepal

6812m

24 days

Strenuous 4E

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WHY CHOOSE EVEREST ONE?

THE ONLY AUSTRALIAN COMPANY OFFERING HIGH ALTITUDE CLIMBING EXPEDITIONS

Everest One have been guiding treks and climbs in the Himalayas for over 15 years, with great success along with an outstanding safety record.

We do not just take anyone who applies.  We need to know that you are capable and have the required experience to safely undertake the adventure you sign up for.

Taking this approach means smaller groups, plus giving you the added confidence that your fellow climbers are capable and prepared.  This allows our team to be more dynamic and flexible on the mountain.

As the only Australian adventure company offering you professional, high-altitude expeditions, you can feel at ease knowing that we are only a phone call away, and also giving you the opportunity to get to know your guides and fellow climbers long before you embark on your journey.

We streamline the process, sorting out all logistics allowing you to focus on the important things, from gear preparation and training, and also steer you through these stages.

Our handpicked team of high altitude climbers are some of the most experienced and professional guides on the mountain.

The climbing team for Ama Dablam alone have incredible experience with 176 expeditions above 8000m, including more than 55 summits of Mt Everest, and 44 summits of Ama Dablam, giving you assurance that you are in very the best company.

Our client:guide ratio is 1:2, meaning you will be paired with a climbing partner and Sherpa at the start of the climb, who will be by your side for the duration of the trip.

Knowing that you are in the hands of a respected, reputable Australian company gives you the best of both worlds.

 

On hand support and advice at any time and a team of climbers who will inspire you to reach great heights.

Small team

Ama Dablam is a serious mountain and challenging objective for the climber wanting to experience a climb above 6000m.

You will need to be disciplined, focussed and prepared to take on the climb of this iconic, beautiful peak.

 

You'll find a number of large expeditions on the mountain, with many climbers and guides. For a multitude of reasons, that's not our style. 

By having a small team of climbers, we are able to move more efficiently and carefully on the mountain, have greater flexibility, the capacity to allow input from team members, along with clear decision making, planned performance resulting in a greater chance to summit as a team.

You'll get to know everyone, both fellow climbers and Sherpas closely throughout the course of the expedition. 

 

With Everest One, we'll have one Sherpa for each 2 climbers and they will guide you throughout your rotations.

 

We'll be on this journey together every step of the way and when it comes to the final push, you will be ready to reach the summit.

Staying healthy

It's vitally important to protect your health on the Ama Dablam Expedition, and Everest One Owner and guide, Allan Cohrs, is an experienced climber and leader on high altitude climbs.

We ensure that our Sherpa Expedition Leader and climbing team are the best in the business, which is vital to giving you the greatest chance of realising your dream.

Together, we monitor the team's performance, conduct daily oxygen saturation readings and ensure the team members are eating well, hydrated, obtaining quality sleep, sufficient rest and are at full strength during each phase of the climb.

Such knowledge is an invaluable resource, especially higher up on the mountain without easy access to base camp ER facilities.

Our Sherpas are expertly trained in all aspects of climbing, including monitoring your health and hygiene, to maximise your performance throughout the expedition.

 

Being a part of a smaller team also gives you significant benefits.

The Ama Dablam Expedition climbing team
Everest One Owner - Allan Cohrs
Allan Cohrs
Expedition Manager

Allan Cohrs BM is the owner of Everest One and personally guides on many of our expeditions.

Sharing time with Allan in the mountains is a common theme most of our guests regularly comment on and part of the reason why so many of them keep coming back.

 

He is down to earth, humble, approachable, discreet, professional, caring and wants you to succeed, but also help you create unforgettable memories along the way. 

You will also be supported by our expert Sherpa guides who have been hand-picked for their professionalism and experience, all of whom have reached the summit of Mt Everest and many other peaks above 8000m.

Having that experience beside you all the way, knowing that everything is taken care of, and your safety and success (in that order) are our primary focus, allows you to relax and feel confident with the decision you have made.

Allan will be managing the climb of Ama Dablam with his Expedition Leader and expert team of high altitude Sherpa guides.

He has guided in all corners of the globe with over 30 high altitude climbs in the Himalayas including Mt Everest (8850m), Lhotse (8516m), Manaslu (8163m), Cho Oyu (8200m), Baruntse (7129m) and Ama Dablam (6812m).

 

Allan also guides on many Himalayan peaks including Mera Peak (6476m), Lobuche East and Island Peak, and also leads trips in Africa with 14 summits of Mt Kilimanjaro (5895m) along with successful climbs of Aconcagua (6960m), the highest mountain in South America. 

He and his team are comfortable at managing clients in a high-altitude environment which has resulted in industry high success rates.

 

Their experience expands to handling logistics, decision making, assessing risk and managing a positive, highly motivated team of climbers. 

Everest One Expedition Leader Phunuru Sherpa
Phunuru Sherpa
Expedition Leader

Phunuru Sherpa is from the village of Phortse, famous for producing some of the finest Sherpa guides in Nepal. He has been working as an Expedition Leader for more than 15 years, and is focused on safety, careful planning, leading a strong team and providing exemplary support and attention to clients.

 

He is a highly experienced, senior head guide (Sirdar), having led 42 expeditions above 8000m.

 

Some of his achievements include summits of the following mountains:

 

World record holder with 19 summits of Cho Oyu (8201m) in Tibet.

  • 16 x Everest (8848m)

  • 3 x Lhotse (8516m)

  • 3 x Manaslu (8163m)

  • 1 x Shishapangma (8027m)

  • 18 x Ama Dablam (6812m)

 

Phunuru was the first Nepalese climbing Ranger in the USA, having worked in 11 different National Parks in the States. He also holds the record of 6 summits of Denali, the highest peak in the USA.

 

He has also reached the summit of Aconcagua, the highest peak in South America 4 times, along with Kilimanjaro, the highest peak in Africa an incredible 22 times.

 

Phunuru is a lead instructor and Educational Director of the Khumbu Climbing Center in Phortse.

 

He is also certified in Long Line Rescue and Wilderness First Aid.

Everest One Sherpa guide Sonam Tashi Sherpa
Sonam Tashi Sherpa
High Altitude Sherpa Guide

Sonam Tashi Sherpa comes from the village of Phortse in the Khumbu region where he lives with his wife, son and daughter.

 

He has guided on 29 expeditions above 8000m.

 

Personally, some of Sonam's climbs include:

  • Everest x 9

  • Manaslu x 6

  • Cho Oy x 2

  • K2 

  • Broad Peak

  • Ama Dablam x 3

Sonam, and his son and daughter are recognised by the Guiness Book of Records as the first trio from a Sherpa family by scaling Mt Everest together on May 23, 2021.

Everest One guide Ang Karma Sherpa
Nima Ang Karma Sherpa
High Altitude Sherpa Guide

Nima Ang Karma Sherpa comes from the village of Phortse in the Khumbu region where he lives with his wife and 2 daughters.

Like many Sherpas, he started his career young and has acquired vast experience in 8000m climbing, having worked on 43 expeditions.

He is trained in Wilderness First Aid Medicine.

Personally, some of Nima Ang Sherpas climbs include:

  • Everest x 14

  • Manaslu x 5

  • Lhotse x 3

  • Cho Oyu x 7

  • Makalu x 2

  • Baruntse x 5

  • Pumori 

  • Ama Dablam x 9

Everest One guide Gyaljen Dorje Sherpa
Gyaljen Dorje Sherpa
High Altitude Sherpa Guide

Gyaljen Dorje Sherpa is also from the village of Phortse, where he lives with his wife, 2 daughters and son.

He has extensive experience climbing at high altitude and an impressive climbing resume, having guided on 31 expeditions above 8000m.

Personally, some of Gyaljen Dorje Sherpas climbs include:

  • Everest x 9

  • Manaslu x 7

  • Lhotse x 3

  • Cho Oyu x 3

  • Makalu

  • Ama Dablam x 3

Everest One guide Dawa Tenzing Sherpa
Dawa Tenzing Sherpa
High Altitude Sherpa Guide

Dawa Tenzing Sherpa is from the village of Phortse in the Khumbu district where he lives with his wife and son.

He is also a graduate from the Khumbu Climbing Centre and is Wilderness First Aid trained.

He has an incredible climbing resume which includes summits of Everest and Manaslu.

Personally, some of Dawa Tenzing Sherpas climbs include:

  • Everest x 10

  • Manaslu x 4
  • Lhotse x 3
  • Cho Oyu x 4
  • Makalu
  • Ama Dablam x 9
  • Peak Lenin x 2
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Basic Itinerary
(Full details in brochure)

Day 1             Arrive Kathmandu

Day 2             In Kathmandu, final preparation

Day 3             Fly to Lukla then trek to Phakding

Day 4             Trek to Namche Bazaar

Day 5             Namche Bazaar Acclimatisation day

Day 6             Trek to Phortse

Day 7             Trek to Pangboche

Day 8             Trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp

Day 9             Rest day/Traditional Puja Ceremony/Training

Day 10           Ama Dablam Base Camp to Yak Camp

Day 11           Yak Camp to Camp 1

Day 12           Camp 1 to Camp 2 (touch) and back to Ama Dablam Base Camp

Day 13           Rest Day / Training

Day 14           Rest Day

Day 15           Ama Dablam Base Camp to Camp 1

Day 16           Camp 1 to Camp 2

Day 17           Camp 2 to Camp 3 or 2.7

Day 18           Summit and back to Camp 1 or Base Camp

Day 19           Contingency Day

Day 20           Contingency Day

Day 21           Contingency Day

Day 22           Pack up Base Camp (Helicopter transfer option)

Day 23           Ama Dablam Base Camp to Namche Bazaar

Day 24           Trek to Lukla

Day 25           Fly to Kathmandu

Day 26           In Kathmandu

Day 27           Return home

What you can expect

Approach (8 days)

The first 2 days are spent in Kathmandu where we will conduct gear checks, enjoy a team dinner and expedition briefing, and pick up any last minute items.  We will fly into Lukla and commence our acclimatisation trek over the next 5 days, spending two nights in the amazing village of Namche Bazaar.  This is an important phase of our journey, as we gain strength and acclimatise to the altitude, before we trek into Ama Dablam Base Camp (4700m).

Base camp (approx. 1 week)

Ama Dablam Base Camp (BC) (4700m) is comfortable and well-equipped. It will be your home for the next 3 weeks or so. Each climber will have their own comfortable individual tent with comfortable mattress, extra blankets, and a carpeted floor. We will gather in our warm triple-skin heated and carpeted dining room for meals, and a separate, similarly outfitted communication and meeting tent with full internet facilities.

Here you can chill with fellow climbers, watch movies, check email, and stay in touch with home. In addition, it has become a climbing tradition in the Himalayas for all groups to conduct a small Buddhist ceremony (Puja) to offer thanks to the mountain, and to ask it for safe passage through its environment. As we get ready, we will alternately rest and climb, giving ourselves the preparation necessary for the best chance of success.

During this time, we will rest, train and do our first rotation on the mountain, spending the night at Camp 1 (4700m), and then touch Camp 2 (6080m), requiring us to scale the Yellow Tower, which is probably the most difficult short section of the climb.

Climb (approx. 7 days)

After we settle in at base camp, we will proceed with checking and testing all of our climbing equipment before our final rotation through the higher camps and our summit bid. Our rotations will include spending nights progressively higher on the mountain as we climb towards our goal.  All going to plan, we will reach the summit in 4 days and have 3 contingency days built into our program.

Pack up Base Camp and return to Kathmandu (6 days)

 

After completing the climb, we will pack up Ama Dablam Base Camp and trek back down to Lukla for our flight back to Kathmandu, where a hot shower, pizza and cold drink await.

For climbers opting to use the Helicopter transfer, you will be flown from Ama Dablam Base Camp to Kathmandu, for your flight home.

Note: Depending on the weather and conditions on the mountain, the contingency days are an important part of the program, and the above itinerary is to be used as a guide only, and changes are often made to give the team the best possible chance of success.

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EVEREST ONE
A GLOBAL RESCUE SAFE TRAVEL PARTNER

Everest One is committed to excellence in every aspect of your trip experience, especially when it comes to safety.

 

That’s why we are a Global Rescue Safe Travel Partner. 

There is no denying that life comes with risk. 

 

You never know what is around the corner, and for that reason, you try to protect yourself by managing risk the best you can. 

 

Adventure travel is no different, and obviously it comes with an element of risk.

 

Whether you are trekking or mountaineering, things do not always go according to plan. 

 

As is the case for most of us in our personal lives, we insure ourselves, our homes, cars and other assets just in case anything goes wrong.

 

Our trips are no different.

 

We understand you have invested a lot of time, effort and money in your adventure.

 

For that very reason, we require each of our clients to obtain suitable travel insurance and evacuation cover (if required) in order to join one of our trips.

 

We occasionally have guests who need to cancel their trip either before it starts or during the trek or climb for various reasons whether it be injury, illness, personal circumstances, work related commitments or family related issues.

 

Whatever the reason, it is important that each client is covered for any situation that may arise.

The most important thing you can do for yourself is head out on your chosen adventure with peace of mind and focus on the reason you are there.

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