CLIMB THE TRUE SUMMIT OF MANASLU,
THE WORLD'S 8th HIGHEST MOUNTAIN
JOIN OUR TEAM AND CHALLENGE YOURSELF TO THE NEXT LEVEL
There has been a lot of discussion recently regarding climbers not reaching the true summit of Manaslu. In 2022, we have prepared an incredible itinerary matched with a strong team of expert climbing Sherpa's to take you to the true summit.
Standing as a relatively isolated 8000m peak in Nepal's central mountain region, Manaslu (8163m) is the world's 8th highest mountain. Like Cho Oyu, it's a good mountain to test extreme high altitude climbing before taking on the Everest challenge. Manaslu is largely a non-technical climb when compared to other 8000m peaks, however, the revised summit route now makes the final part of the climb more difficult with some technical climbing required.
Usually Manaslu expeditions start as a true sea to summit adventure by trekking in from an altitude of 530m through subtropical forests. This expedition will instead bypass the hot and long approach with a helicopter fly in close to base camp. We will summit Manaslu via the North-West ridge by placing four high camps above base camp. The most technical section is through the icefall between Camps 1 and 2, with some potential for serac fall in certain conditions. The remainder of the route is relatively straight forward, with increasing steep sections from Camp 3 and some technical climbing on the final push for the summit.
This expedition requires excellent fitness and prior experience of a Himalayan expedition, preferably with a prior 7000m climb. You must have extensive climbing skills and should be able to carry at least 20kg, demonstrate strong endurance both physically and mentally.
Previously Cho Oyu was considered the most suitable mountain for climbers entering the world of 8000m peaks. Manaslu has now become the preferred option with simpler logistics, easy access and lower costs.
Hard to difficult
Steep terrain that requires ability to climb on snow/ice/rock. Experience with roping techniques including abseiling/rappelling along with good crampon skills.
Excellent fitness and previous experience of a Himalayan (or similar climb) above 7000m.
1st September to 9th October 2022
Trip Duration: 39 days
Manaslu is a big mountain.
You'll find a number of large expeditions on the mountain, with as many as 30 climbers and 40 Sherpas in a single team. For a multitude of reasons, that's not our style.
By having a small team of climbers, we are able to move more efficiently on the mountain, haver greater flexibility, we have the capacity to allow input from team members regarding decision making and therefore, are able to have a much greater chance to summit as a team.
You'll get to know everyone, both fellow climbers and Sherpas closely throughout the course of the expedition.
With Everest One, we'll have one Sherpa for each climber and they will guide you throughout your rotations. We'll be in this journey together every step of the way and when it comes to summit push time, we'll practically be family!
It's vitally important to protect your health on the Manaslu Expedition, and Everest One Owner and guide, Allan Cohrs, is an experienced climber and leader, having led expeditions on Everest and Lhotse.
He and his team monitor the team's performance, conduct daily oxygen saturation readings and ensure the team members are eating well, hydrated, obtaining quality sleep, sufficient rest and are at full strength during each phase of the climb.
Such knowledge is an invaluable resource, especially higher up on the mountain without an easy access to base camp ER facilities.
Our Sherpas are also well-trained in all aspects of hygiene, to ensure that you don't come down with a stomach bug the day before you leave base camp for the summit. Having a smaller team also assists in this regard.
The Manaslu Expedition climbing team
Allan Cohrs BM is the owner of Everest One and personally guides on many of our trips.
Sharing time with Allan in the mountains is a common theme most of our guests regularly comment on and part of the reason why so many of our guests keep coming back.
He is down to earth, humble, approachable, discreet, professional, caring and wants you to succeed, but also help you create unforgettable memories along the way.
You will also be supported by our expert Sherpa guides who have been hand-picked for their professionalism and experience, many of whom have reached the summit of Mt Everest and other high-altitude peaks.
Having that experience beside you all the way, knowing that everything is taken care of, and your safety and success (in that order) are our primary focus, allows you to relax and feel confident with the decision you have made.
Allan will be leading the trek into Everest Base Camp along with the climb of Lobuche East.
He has guided in all corners of the globe with over 20 high altitude climbs in the Himalayas including Mt Everest (8850m), Lhotse (8516m), Cho Oyu (8200m), Baruntse (7129m) and Ama Dablam (6812m).
Allan regularly guides on many Himalayan peaks including Mera Peak (6476m), Lobuche East and Island Peak, and also leads trips in Africa with 13 summits of Mt Kilimanjaro (5895m) along with successful climbs of Aconcagua (6960m), the highest mountain in South America.
He and his team are experts at managing clients in a high-altitude environment which has resulted in some of the highest success rates in both climbs and treks they lead.
Their experience expands to handling logistics, decision making, assessing risk and managing a happy and harmonious team.
Ang Tshering Lama
Ang is one of the most technically experienced and professional Sherpa guides in Nepal.
He is intelligent, relaxed, witty, methodical and organised. Ang is a climbing instructor and advisory board member of the Khumbu Climbing Center in Khumbu, Nepal and also spent time in the mountains in the US as a park ranger performing search and rescue on Rainier National Park and Denali National Park in Alaska where he lead 4 expeditions on Denali.
Ang has climbed extensively in Nepal, Tibet and Mustang including 4 summits of Mt Everest.
In 2017 he performed the worlds highest rescue from 8600 meters on Everest saving the lives of a Sherpa and his client from Pakistan.
Apart from guiding and climbing mountains Ang is a social worker, working with the education of children in remote villages and rebuilding the damaged schools in the villages of Nepal after the earthquake in 2015.
Ang loves to share the cultures, traditions and adventures from his country and mountains to people from around the world.
Mingma Chhiring Sherpa
Sirdar - Head Sherpa
Mingma comes from the village of Phortse in the Khumbu region.
Once a Monk in Tengboche Monastery, he later moved into mountaineering and has not looked back.
Mingma is a lead instructor of the Khumbu Climbing School and also graduated from the National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS) in the USA.
Mingma is quiet in nature but his climbing resume is impressive. Just in his family alone (including his father, uncles and his siblings) they have over 70 Everest summits.
Personally, some of Mingma's climbs include:
Everest x 15
Manaslu x 3
Cho Oy x 6
Makalu x 2
Kanchenjunga x 1
Ama Dablam x 7
Nawang Tenjing Sherpa
Nawang Tenjing Sherpa comes from the village of Phortse in the Khumbu region.
He is one of the lead instructors of the Khumbu Climbing Centre.
He started his career young unlike many Sherpas.
He has vast experience in 8000m climbing and has summited Manaslu 9 times.
He is trained in Wilderness First Aid Medicine.
Personally, some of Nawang Tenjing Sherpas climbs include:
Everest x 8
Everest in 2011/12/13/16 with Himex
Everest in 2017/18 on North side (Tibet) with Alpenglow
Everest in 2021 with IMG
Manaslu x 9
Ama Dablam x 2
Muztagata (China) x 3
Lal Bahadur Tamang
Lal Bahadur comes from Rasuwa district in the Langtang area.
He started his big mountain expedition career with the Swiss expedition and most of his Everest summits are from the Tibetan side.
He has also reached the summit of Manaslu a number of times.
Lal Bahadur has the most extensive climbing resume from his district.
He has completed his mountaineering course with the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA)
Personally, some of Lal Bahadurs climbs include:
Everest x 7 (6 from the Tibet side and 1 from the Nepalese side)
Manaslu x 2
Broad Peak (Pakistan) x 2
K2 (no summit)
Himlung x 7
Saribung x 2
Furu Chheten Sherpa
Furu is from the village of Phortse in the Khumbu district.
He is also a graduate from the Khumbu Climbing Centre.
He has an incredible climbing resume which includes summits of Everest and Manaslu.
Personally, some of Furus climbs include:
Everest x 6 (1 from the Tibet side and 5 from the Nepalese side)
- Everest 2019 with National Geographic Everest Expedition
- Everest 2021 with SNT
- Manaslu x 4
- Manaslu 2021 with SNT
- Lhotse x 2
- Lhotse 2018 in Autumn with Hillary O'Neil and Jim Morrison (First ski decent)
Tenzing Gyalzen Sherpa
Base Camp Manager
Tenzing Gyalzen is from the village of Phortse in the Khumbu district.
He is a lead instructor at the Khumbu Climbing Centre.
He is also an International Mountain Guide
He also worked as part of the construction team of the centre where almost 900 climbing Sherpas have graduated.
Personally, some of Tenzing Gyalzens climbs include:
Everest x 3
Everest 2019 with National Geographic Everest Expedition as Base Camp Manager
Everest 2021 with National Geographic Everest Expedition as Climbing guide
Makalu x 1
Ama Dablam x 4
Lunak Ri 2016 with Conrad Anker and David Lama as Base Camp Manager
Lunak Ri 2018 with David Lama as Base Camp Manager
Cholatse 2018 with David Lama as Climbing guide
Lakpa Chhiri Sherpa
Lakpa is from the Dolakha district.
He has extensive experience at climbing above 8000m with summits of both Everest and Manaslu.
He is less of a talker but a strong and hard climber in the mountains.
He completed his mountaineering course with the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA).
Personally, some of Lakpas climbs include:
Everest x 4 (2017/18/19/21)
Manaslu x 2
Annapurna x 1
Makalu x 1
Ama Dablam x 2
Gaugiri (Dolpo) x 1
Mingma is the youngest climbing Sherpa of the team at 23 years of age.
He started his career as a porter at the age of 14.
Since then, he has reached the summit of Everest twice already and has been shown to be extremely capable and strong in the mountains.
Mingma is a graduate of the Khumbu Climbing Centre in Nepal.
Personally, some of Mingma's climbs include:
Everest x 2 (2019/21)
Everest 2018 to Camp 3
What you can expect
Approach (4 days)
From Kathmandu we will helicopter to Samagaon (3525m), a Bhotia village at the base of Manaslu. We will spend 3 nights in Samagaon and do local day trips to acclimalise our bodies for the climb ahead. The trek up to base camp is a steep 1000m climb up the glacier moraine.
Base camp (approx. 1 week)
Manaslu base camp (BC) is comfortable and well-equipped. It will be your home for the next month or so. Each climber will have their own comfortable individual tent with comfortable mattress, extra blankets, and a carpeted floor. We will gather in our warm triple-skin heated and carpeted dining room for meals, and a separate, similarly outfitted communication and meeting tent with full internet facilities.
Here you can chill with fellow climbers, watch movies, check email, and stay in touch with home. In addition, it has become a climbing tradition in the Himalayas for all groups to conduct a small Buddhist ceremony (Puja) to offer thanks to the mountain, and to ask it for safe passage through its environment. As we get ready, we will alternately rest and climb, giving ourselves the preparation necessary for the best chance of success.
Climb (approx. 3 weeks spent above base camp)
After we settle in at base camp, we will proceed with checking and testing all of our climbing equipment before our first rotation through the higher camps. Our rotations will include spending nights progressively higher on the mountain as we climb and familiarize ourselves with the route. Meanwhile, our Sherpas will set up and stock higher camps (C1-C3) with essential supplies needed for the next month of climbing.
Once we are well-acclimatised and our camps are set, we will take some extra time to rest up at base camp, before going for the summit!
After the climb, we will descend to Samagoan and fly out back to Kathmandu, where a hot shower, pizza and cold drink await.
(Full details in brochure)
Day 1 Arrive Kathmandu
Day 2 In Kathmandu, final preparation
Day 3 Fly to Samagaon via helicopter (3525m)
Day 4-6 In Samagaon
Day 7 Trek to Manaslu Base Camp (4460m)
Day 8-10 Acclimitisation in Base Camp and Puja
Day 11-20 Rotation climb for Base Camp to Camp 1-3
Day 21-22 Rest at Base Camp
Day 23-35 Climb to Camp 4 and summit Manaslu (8163m)
Day 36-37 Rest in Base Camp, pack and trek to Samagaon
Day 38 Helicopter to Kathmandu and in Kathmandu
Day 39 Depart Kathmandu